makanandcomida

What a great food and ambiance experience last night – we finally managed to have dinner at Miam Miam restaurant in Rua General Góis Monteiro 34 in Botafogo. Located in a charmingly restored old building, furnished with 60s and 70s furniture it must have been one of the best dinners I have had so far in Rio.

We had roastbeef rolls filled with rocket and parmesan and drizzled with herbed olive oil and asian style super tender baby calamari rings as a starter followed by beef medallions with gnocci as well as beef with mushroom sauce and truffled greens.

An all around great and delicious experience definitely worth repeating!

Recipe for hummus dip

• a can of chick peas, reserve the liquid
• 2 cloves of garlic
• 1 spring onion roughly chopped
• juice of 1 lemon or 2 limes
• 2tbs tahini paste
• salt and pepper
• olive oil
• coriander and red paprika powder or chili for garnish

Blend the chick peas, garlic, spring onion, lemon juice in the food processor, adding the tahini paste. Add the chick pea liquid should the texture be too solid. Season with salt and pepper, drizzle with some olive oil and serve garnished with coriander.

Serve with grilled meat or with pita bread as a pre-drink snack.

This weekend we finally made it to THE churrascaria institution in Rio – Porcão – first opened in 1975. The name means large pig – I suppose for pigging into large amounts of meat even though mainly beef and lamb. The system is easy; you pay a lumpsum and help yourself with a wide variety of salads, sushis and sashimis, other seafoods and antipasti. The meats are served at the table and cut from large spits directly onto your plate.

The trick is to wait for the best cuts, not filing yourself up with to many delicious treats from the buffet and not indulging into the staples they bring to the table in order to save on meat. Who wants farofa (manioc flour), plain white rice or fries if you can have picanha, filet and leg of lamb?

You receive a sign with a red and a green side, informing the waiters whether you are ready for more meat or need to have a break:

As it was market day again yesterday, I asked my favorite fish monger – an above 80 very friendly guy always explaining me the different fishes and seafood – about the fish he likes best. He recommended the Anchovy. I had thought they come in smaller sizes but got hold of this nearly 2 kg fish for dinner:

Recipe for oven baked anchovy for 6

• 2kg anchovy, cleaned by the nice fishmonger with diagonal cuts into the skin
• 4 limes or lemons sliced
• mixed fresh herbs such as parsley, basil, coriander, dill, oregano chopped
• bunch of spring onions chopped
• 4 cloves of garlic sliced inserted into the skin cuts
• salt and pepper
• olive oil
• 1kg of boiled potatoes with skin, cut into half

Place the fish onto some slices of lemon in an ovenproof dish. Stuff the fish with the herbs, some slices of lemon and spring onions, drizzle it with olive oil and lemon juice and season with salt and pepper. Place the potatoes around the fish and drizzle with some olive oil as well. Bake in 200C oven for about 45 minutes. Serve with green beans or ratatouille.

Yesterday I shared our kitchen with 4 women for a cook together – great fun especially the eating part afterwards:

The menu was brazilian inspired, so we had fresh palm hearts (see 23rd november) and ceviche (see 21st november) as a starter and moqueca de peixe (29th november) as a main course:

It is definitely not true that too many cooks spoil the kitchen!

Picking up my kids from school I came across the presidents motorcycle guard, that seemed to be happy enough to not only have their picture taken

but as well offering me to pretend riding the large bike!

Recipe for fig, mozzarella and parma ham starter for 4

• 8-12 ripe figs
• 8 -12 small mozzarella balls
• 150g of finely sliced parma ham
• juice of 1 lemon or 2 limes
• 3tbs of olive oil
• salt and pepper
• fresh basil
• 1 red chili finely diced (optional)

Cut the top part of the fig and criss cross it open without cutting all the way through. Place the mozzarella into the split and wrap the fig with a slice of parma ham. Repeat with all figs and place them on a nice serving tray. Mix the lemon or lime juice with the olive oil, salt and pepper and drizzle over the figs. Allow to marinate for a couple of hours. Garnish with fresh basil and optionally with the chili. Serve with fresh crusty bread to scoop up the juice. A recipe from Jaime Oliver who calls it the easiest sexiest salad – one of my all time favorites!

Last Friday a Singaporean friend living in Niteroi introduced me to the Sao Pedro fish market – an institution I had heard a lot about. People do cross the bay by boat regularly to buy their weekly stock of fish and seafood at this market:

I must say I had expected more – more stalls and especially more variety of fish and seafood – nowhere could I find my all time favorite scallops or other mussels but rather pretty much the same variety of fish I can find on my weekly monday fair in Botafogo.

Prices and freshness are good though and the whole place is blessed and guarded by this altar framed by two aquariums :

As my kids love salmon I stocked up on a salmon filet for that night’s dinner:

Recipe for salmon asian style with wasabi potato and pea mash for 4

• 800g of salmon filet
• 5cm piece of ginger finely chopped
• 3 cloves of garlic pressed
• juice of 2-3 limes
• 1 stick of lemon grass finely chopped
• 800g of potatoes peeled and diced
• 300g of frozen peas
• 1-2tbs wasabi paste
• 200ml of coconut milk
• olive oil
• salt and pepper
• coriander for garnish

Marinate the salmon with the ginger, garlic, lime juice and lemon grass for 2-3 hours. Place in oven proof dish and bake in 200C oven for about 25 minutes. Boil the potatoes until soft adding the frozen peas just for the last 3 minutes. Drain and mash adding the coconut milk and wasabi paste. Season with salt and pepper and serve with the salmon garnished with fresh coriander.

I’m far from being a vegetarian or god help a vegan, as I do love my meats, fish and seafood too much, but asian food especially indian cooking always amazes me with the variety of tastes and textures of preparing vegetables. So far I had never set a foot into a vegan restaurant but must say my experience today has changed my view. It is very nice to find a vegetarian/vegan restaurant here in meat heavy Rio, serving a vast and delicious variety of vegetable dishes from all around the world.

Refeitorio Organico is located in Rua Dezenove de Fevereiro 120 in Botafogo, only open for lunch, serving a great buffet meal with changing dishes every day for only 20 Reais.

The place is peaceful with an asian touch and decor and a nice time out from the huzzle and buzzle around in the streets of Botafogo. The crowd is an international mixture coming from all over Rio to sample the dishes.

On our last trip out of town I came across these red banana plant – too beautiful not to share:

Recipe for pumpkin-carrot soup with an asian twist for 4

• 700g pumpkin peeled and diced
• 300g carrots peeled and diced
• 1 onion diced
• 5cm piece of ginger peeled and diced
• 1 clove of garlic diced
• 2 red chilies chopped
• 1,5 litres vegetable stock
• 300ml coconut milk
• salt and pepper
• lime juice
• fresh coriander

Fry the onion, garlic, ginger and chili in some oil. Add the stock and bring to the boil, adding the pumpkin and carrots. Simmer for about 20 minutes until soft. Blend, add the coconut milk and season with lime juice, salt and pepper. Garnish with fresh coriander for serving.

For a non-vegetarian version add boiled prawns.

Last night we finally made it to THE nightlife institution of Rio – Rio Scenarium in Lapa – a bar cum antiques and junk shop in a gorgeous  old shop house spreading over three floors with a capacity of hosting about 3000 nightowls in search of life samba and other dancing music:

The whole place is decorated with antiques and nicknacks. that can be purchased during the day and serve as abundant decoration at night. There seems to be an endless stock to replenish the decorations bought.

We arrived early which allowed us to take in all the details and wonderfully kitschy decorations and secured our party a table. A couple of hours into the evening the band started playing samba and the place was packed with such a diverse crowd of people from anywhere and everywhere and in all ages, sizes and shapes:

We had a great night with friends – definitely a place to come back to!

Today’s Sunday lunch turned out to be a relaxed all afternoon spreading affair spent with friends over a salad, steaks and a cold chardonnay – one of my favorite ways to end the weekend – here comes the recipe for

Pasta salad going green for 6 as part of a lunch to serve with grilled beef or fish

• 500g of short shaped pasta boiled and drained
• bunch of spring onions finely chopped
• 2 cucumbers finely chopped
• 300g of frozen peas defrosted
• 300g of broad beans
• bunch of green asparagus blanched and sliced
• fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, basil, coriander
• olive oil
• lime juice
• slat and pepper

Mix all the ingredients together and dress with the lime juice and olive oil. Season with salt and pepper and serve warm or cold as part of a lunch meal or buffet. Easy to prepare ahead and you might want to replace any veggie you do not fancy with any other green one you do!

Yesterday friends took us to discover an area of Rio that we so far had not yet been to – Rua Pacheco Leão in Jardim Botanico. A street facing the botanical gardens lined with old colonial double story houses slowly being transformed into galleries, restaurants and bars.

A landmark is the Par Paxeco, a wonderful open air bar with views over Corcovado – what a place for nightcap.

For dinner we went to Jojö  a tiny place serving fusion fare at about 10 tables on the sidewalk:

but the best is that each Thursday they serve fresh succulent oysters with a free glass of bubbly for the ladies as it was women’s day – what a treat:

Recipe for tuna steaks with tomato salsa for 2:

• 2 fresh thick tuna steaks about 250g each
• 2 spring onions
• 1 clove of garlic
• 2 tomatoes
• fresh coriander
• 1 red chili deseeded
• olive oil
• lime juice
• salt and pepper
• green beans and boiled potatoes for serving

Blizz the spring onions, garlic, chili and coriander in a food processor. Add the tomatoes and just blizz for a couple of seconds not to cut them to finely. Season with salt, pepper a dash of olive oil and lime juice.

In a hot pan fry the tuna steaks in olive oil until nicely browned on both sides but still slightly red in the middle. Serve with boiled potatoes, green beans and topped with the tomato salsa.

On Sunday we went for a day trip to Petropolis, an hour and a half away from Rio in the mountains. The city was developed as a summer mountain retreat for Emperor Dom Pedro II and his family in the mid of the 19th century to allow for the stay in the cooler and mosquito-less climate. The old part of the city features the palace, noble houses and a small cathedral.

A great way to explore the cobblestoned old city centre is by horse-drawn carriages.

The one hour round trip takes you to see the cathedral, the summer palace, the crystal palace, build for Princes Isabel in France and brought to Brazil in 1884

and the House of Santos Dumont, the brazilian writer, inventor, architect and aviation pioneer.

A tour around the Imperial Museum hosted inside the summer palace rounded up the cultural part of the visit. The museum exhibits royal furniture, part of the crown jewels, old horse-drawn carriages and this wonderfully over the top golden crib for the royal heir:

Back in Rio and after a stroll at Ipanema beach with a friend we tried out a new mexican restaurant/bar Azteka on Rua Visconde de Pirajá 156. It serves burritos and tacos filled with a wide variety of ingredients. Food was very good as well as the very friendly service. A good spot for a lunch or take away to the beach.

Recipe for Cesar Salad for 2 as side dish for a steak or grilled fish

• 1 Roma lettuce, washed and cut
• 50g of parmesan cheese grated
• 3 anchovy fillets finely chopped
• 1 clove of garlic pressed
• 1 egg boiled for 3 minutes, using only the egg yolk
• 3tbs olive oil
• juice of two limes or 1 lemon

First Saturday of the month and finally we made it to the antique market in Lapa – a rediscovered old neighborhood in central Rio that is changing rapidly with a great number of old abandoned houses being bought up and turned into restaurants, shops or lofts. It is good to see this area coming back into life and old building such as these saved:

The market is a great place to browse for nicknack, clothes and antiques ranging from over the top big mansion century old furniture to sleek danish designs from the last decades.

I call myself now the proud owner of this wonderfully kitschy Rio altar made out of a recycled can – i love it!

Recipe for Peruvian conchitas a la parmesana (parmesan baked scallops) for 2 as a starter 

• 10 scallops in half shell (or more as this is heavenly delicious)
• 100g of grated parmesan
• 20g of butter
• fresh pepper
• limes or lemons

Preheat oven to 200C. Place the scallops on a baking tray and season with ground pepper. Sprinkle the grated parmesan over the top and add a small sliver of butter to each scallop. Bake or grill for 5 to 8 minutes at a high temperature until the cheese melts and turns golden.

Serve with a wedge of lemon or lime and some fresh crusty bread to scoop up the juices. Goes well with a Pisco Sour (see recipe on 2nd dec) or a nice cold glass of chardonnay. One of my all time favorite starters.

This Thursday, 1st of March Rio is turning 447 years of age but still a beauty – happy birthday!

I visited Sao Paulo for a couple of days for the first time in 20 years and am very impressed by the sheer size and economic development the economic capital of Brazil has had. But the shining skyline of skyscrapers in all styles as well as the ever growing number of large high-end shopping malls makes Sao Paulo look very similar to any large metropolis in Asia – modern cities today have so little what tells them apart and once you are in one of the office towers, shopping malls or hotel chains it is absolutely interchangeable.

But one thing clearly sets Sao Paulo apart – the culinary, the gastro scene – it is so much more international and sophisticated than in Rio de Janeiro, with trendy restaurants serving all kinds of fare from any corner in the world dotting the streets – oh I wish to have more time to try lots of them out.

We went to a lovely portuguese restaurant for a light lunch – Espirito Santo, meaning Holy Spirit in the neighborhood of Itaim Bibi.

We had delicious pasteis de bacalhau – stockfish cakes and a fresh and succulent seafood salad.

Nothing better than finishing this light lunch with a Bica (portuguese word for an expresso and a pastel de Belem or de Nata (a portuguese delicacy pudin egg tart served warm sprinkled with cinnamon). It originates from Lisbon and the best once are found in the Pastelaria do Belem in Belem in Lisbon – thus the name. a must go if in Lisbon!